Cascais, Nazaré, Tomar, Coimbra, and Aveiro
Cascais
We passed through Cascais to have lunch and pick up a rent-a-car at Avis. Knowing that Caiscais is a popular seaside tourist destination we weren’t expecting to want to spend much time there, and that was pretty much how it went, but we were only there for a few hours.
Nazaré
While driving north up the center of the country we did a day trip stop at Nazaré. Sadly our day was cold and blustery – unusually chilly for April. You could feel the intensity of the place from the bluffs over the beach looking toward the landmark lighthouse and surf break. The town square with high overlook at the church plaza was beautiful. We later learned that there is a black Madonna in that church. (Had we consulted the Atlas Obscura beforehand we might have known to visit her).
Coimbra
We really enjoyed the energy and culture of Coimbra, not knowing what to expect when we arrived, but maybe that was part of what made it fun as we discovered more about its history and beginnings. Coimbra lost it’s status as the capital of Portugal in 1290, so it decided to focus on another distinction, by establishing the first university in Portugal and transitioned from a major political center to a cultural and academic center in the Middle Ages. Including the Botanical gardens.
Joanine Library
One of the most beautiful libraries in the world at the Universidadge of Coimbra. Does hourly tours through its very baroque rooms. They say they let bats out to catch any paper – eating moths at night to help preserve the ancient books. The ticket office is in the gift shop a block away from the library, in a building near the Young Owl trash art mural by street artist Bordallo II.
Restaurants & a hotel
Arcada Comes e Bebes – R. de Fernandes Thomas 89
Delicious food and entertaining young owner Rafael. He turned us on to Portugese Touriga Nacional & Syrah wine blends which became our favorite wines to sample across the country.
FANGAS VEG
Just a few door fronts away from Arcada Comes e Bebes on R. de Fernandes Thomas, our first vegetarian food in Portugal and much needed.
Hotel – The Luggage
Highly recommended– informative/hospitable owner, walk to everything in town.
Tomar and Aveiro
We visited both of these towns on day trips. Driving to each through beautiful countryside is gorgeous. Tomar has a small river running alongside some old, walk-able neighborhoods and picturesque churches. Aveiro has a huge concentration of waterways and colorful boats. It seems to be under a large urban re-development project with many areas of town blocked off and lots of cranes and constitution equipment along the waterways.
Appletons abroad 